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Sunday, May 4. 2008
Ein herrlicher Sonnentag empfängt uns in Ocean Springs. Über Nacht ist es feucht geworden, aber dadurch ist es erfrischend kühl, bei 18 Grad. Wir wandern auf dem Bayou Trail, über die ehemalige Dünenlandschaft, wo jetzt Baumstämme vermodern, teilweise vom Sturm gekappt. In der sumpfigen Küstenlandschaft gedeiht auch der Nationalbaum des Mississippi, der Magnolienbaum. In den unter Moos versteckten Tümpeln sieht man winzig kleine gelbliche Fische. Auf dem Trail wachsen rote Beerensträucher. Ein Wanderer, der sich gerade über die Früchte hermacht, erklärt uns, dass das die typischen „roten blueberries“ von Mississippi sind, die man hier auch huckleberries nennt. Wir packen unsere Räder zusammen und fahren auf der 90 West Richtung Biloxi. Kurz hinter Ocean Springs queren wir den Golf über die geschwungene Biloxi Bridge. Wir fahren vorbei an den typischen Einkaufsstraßen, wo neben Lebensmittelketten noch die „nails cares“ (Maniküre, Pediküre) und „salons“ (Friseursalons). In Biloxi sieht man noch überall Spuren, die der Sturm "Katharina" 2004 hinterlassen hat. Die Häuser stehen teilweise noch, die Türen und Fensteröffnungen sind durch Bretter vernagelt und einsturzgefährdet, von anderen Gebäuden steht nur noch die Bodenplatte aus Beton und ein paar Ziegelsteine. Die Küstenstraße wird komplett neu ausgebaut und asphaltiert. Hinter der Küstenstraße meilenweit Sandstrand. Nur wenige Sonnenanbeter haben sich bisher an die Küste verirrt, obwohl es Wochenende ist. Am Eisenhower Drive sind immerhin ein paar Sonnenschirme und ein Wasserschifahrer kurvt einsam an der Küste entlang. Die nächste Station ist Gulf Point. Auch hier hat „Katharina“ gewütet. Trotzdem entstehen hier große Hotelkomplexe neu, wie etwa das Hotel Siena. Wir fahren weiter bis Wavesand und machen eine kleine Pause. Bis zum State Park in New Orleans sind es noch 102 km. Wir passieren nach ca. 20 km die Grenze von Mississippi nach Louisiana (LA). An der Nebenstraße gibt es kein Welcome Board. Wir fahren jetzt über zahlreiche Brücken des Mississippi-Delta-Gebiets. Rechts und links der 90 West ,nur unbewohnbare Feuchtgebiete; die Vegetation ist auch hier durch die Stürme in Mitleidenschaft gezogen. Viele abgebrochene und abgestorbene Bäume. Diese alte Highway 90 West ist selbst am heutigen Sonntag kaum befahren. Jetzt beginnt wieder der bewohnbare Küstenstreifen; die Häuser sind auf bis zu 4m hohen Stelzen gebaut, um Sturm und Hochwasser zu trotzen. Langsam belebt sich die Straße und wir fahren von Osten in den „business district“ von New Orleans ein, links von uns die Skyline. Wir folgen dem Lauf des Mississippi über endlos scheinende Viadukte, die den Blick über die Stadtteile im Süden eröffnen, vorbei an Schiffswerften und Lastkränen, dazwischen trostlose Containersiedlungen, bis zum Ende des Express Ways, auf die sogenannte 90 Business West. Von hier geht es nach links auf die Drake Avenue und zum Bayou Segnette State Park. Der Park ist sehr großzügig angelegt, an einem Nebenarm des Mississippi. Wir fahren mit dem Rad ein Stück auf dem Express Way zurück und besorgen noch Lebensmittel. Radfahrer sind hier die Ausnahme. Der Ranger meint aber, dass man mit dem Rad auch ins Stadtzentrum fahren kann. Vom Einkauf zurück, empfängt uns wildes Vogelgezwitscher. Vor allem der Woodpecker ist nicht zu überhören. Die Schnaken hält das aber leider nicht von ihren Angriffen ab. 
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