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Saturday, July 19. 2008
Heute Morgen 6.30 Uhr sind es 9 Grad. Es ist bewölkt. Richtung Paradise, das heißt, oberhalb 1000m wird es heller. Am Ringsecker Point frühstücken wir in der Hoffnung, dass sich der Nebel über dem Mount Rainier auflösen möge. Aber um 7.30 Uhr sieht es noch nicht danach aus. Lediglich der Whitman Crest, die östliche Flanke des Bergs liegt in der Sonne, wie gestern Mittag. Wir queren den Paradise River und machen gleich Halt. Von hier hat man endlich einen Blick auf die Kuppe des Mount Rainier. Dort beginnt der östliche Teil des National Parks, Richtung Ohanapecosh (bedeutet "am Rande stehend"). Der Reflection Lake ist unser nächstes Ziel. Es ist herrliches Wetter, und der Berg spiegelt sich tatsächlich im See, auch wenn der Wind die Oberfläche leicht kräuselt. Am Seeufer liegen noch große Schneehaufen vom letzten Monat. Die Straße führt jetzt am Tatoosh River entlang, oberhalb des tiefeingeschnittenen gleichnamigen Canyons. Wir parken am Trail zum Grove of the Patriarchs. Wie vermutet, handelt es sich um einen Teil des Regenwaldes, wo sich viele uralte Bäume beispielhaft zusammenfinden: Western Red Cedar, Western Hemlok Fir, Douglas Fir. Diese bis zu 60m hohen Zedern und Tannen sind Hunderte von Jahren alt, teilweise bis zu 1000 Jahre. Das Wurzelwerk ist total verschlungen und beschert bizarre Fotos. Wir verlassen kurz hinter dem Parkplatz die Straße nach Osten und biegen beim Stevens Canyon Entrance nach Norden. Wir fahren oberhalb des White Rivers; von hier sieht man den Mount Rainier von seiner Ostseite in voller Größe und Klarheit im Sonnenlicht. Wir sind wieder im Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, den wir schon bei unserem Ausflug zum Mount Baker kennen gelernt haben. Auf der SR-410 gibt es eine ganze Reihe von Camp Grounds. Wir fahren jetzt von 1600m in die Tal-Region auf 500m herunter. Auch dort unten ist der Nebel verschwunden. Zahlreiche Autos aus dem Großraum Seattle und einige Radfahrer nutzen das tolle Wetter zu einer Spritztour in die Berge. Wir sehen den Mount Rainier noch einmal von seiner Nordseite im vollen Sonnenlicht und verlassen den National Forest Richtung Enumclaw. Bei Safeway kaufen wir unser geliebtes French Bread. Auf der 164 North geht’s nach Auburn. Das Green River Tal ist intensiv landwirtschaftlich genutzt. Von der anschließenden SR-18 West wird die Besiedlung immer dichter. Von Renton aus biegen wir auf die 167 West und nähern uns dem Großraum von Seattle. Auf diesem Highway werden wir Zeuge einer Polizeirazzia. Die Polizei schnappt sich bei der nächsten Ausfahrt eine Gruppe junger Motor-Biker. Wegen ihrer schnellen und gefährlichen Fahrweise werden sie gestoppt, müssen sich auf der Straße auf den Bauch legen, Arme auf den Rücken. Die Helme sind abgenommen. Wie wir den Worten eines Sheriffs entnehmen, wird derjenige, der seine Papiere nicht herausrückt zur Wache mit genommen. Es sind 5 Biker, denen plötzlich 4 Polizeifahrzeuge gegenüber stehen: blitzartig haben die Polizisten eine Sperre aufgebaut, die jede Weiterfahrt blockiert. Wir fahren vom Süden über die Highway 5 Richtung Downtown, vor uns die Skyline. Wir nehmen die Abfahrt zum Seattle Center und parken in der Western Avenue. Von hier sind es ein paar Schritte zum Hafen. Wir bummeln nach Norden bis zum Olympic Park, vorbei am Fährhafen nach Victoria, wo reger Verkehr herrscht. An der Hafenmole drängen sich die Spaziergänger. Am Olympic Park gibt es eine Reihe von Stühlen, damit man verweilen kann und die Bay in der Abendsonne genießen kann. Wir laufen zum Aussichtsturm Space Needle hoch, dem Wahrzeichen der Stadt am Seattle Center. Hier herrscht Jahrmarktstimmung: Fresstempel, Riesenrad, Karussell. Wir interessieren uns für die Live Musiker, die im „Beer garden“ classic rock spielen. Die Band ist wirklich gut. Sie spielt Lieder aus den 70ern von den Doors, Nash+Young und America; leider haben wir die Songs von Steppenwolf verpasst. Auffallend viele Polizisten fahren hier mit den Rädern Streife und überprüfen die Jugendlichen nach Hasch und Alkohol. Nach dem Konzert ist alles in dem Park unterwegs, ein wirklicher „melting pot of people“ und alle Altersgruppen. Wir spazieren durch die großen Avenues, bis wir unten in Downtown wieder bei der Western Avenue herauskommen, wo wir geparkt haben. Das Zentrum der Stadt konzentriert sich um den Hügel, der sich oberhalb der Hafenbucht in Nord-Süd-Richtung erstreckt. Wir fahren nach Süden, vorbei an dem Werksgelände von Boeing und dem Luftfahrtmuseum. Von der Highway 9 aus sehen wir den alles überragenden schneebedeckten Mount Rainier in der Abendsonne. Weiter geht’s nach Des Moines. Hier ist der einzige Camp Ground, den wir in der Nähe von Seattle gefunden haben. Aber der ist natürlich am Samstag schon voll. Bei Federal Way, nicht weit vom internationalen Flughafen, machen wir Rast. Dort ist der Celebration Park, wo wir eine Picnic Area entdecken. In der Not könnten wir bei Wal-Mart übernachten. Wir kaufen noch Jeans ein, das Stück zwischen 10 und 16 Dollar, also ca. 6 bis 10 Euro. Wahnsinn! Leider ist das Übernachten nicht erlaubt. Wir fahren zum Safeway um die Ecke und finden dort ein Plätzchen, wo wir in Ruhe stehen bleiben können.

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