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Sunday, May 25. 2008
Wir haben in einer Seitenstraße der Main Avenue, unterhalb des Buckley Parks, übernachtet. Nach 23 Uhr wurde es hier ruhig. Die Fritenbude gegenüber hat auch dicht gemacht. Am Morgen, in dicke Pullover und Jacken gepackt, wachen wir wieder bei 2 Grad auf. Wir werden uns doch nicht daran gewöhnen müssen! Wir fahren zurück zum Visitor Center, wo wir das öffentliche Netz zum Kaffeekochen nutzen. Die Schaltung und die Bremsen der Räder müssen erst noch geölt werden, nachdem wir sie gestern einer Wäsche unterzogen haben. Die Sonne kommt um 8 Uhr schon hinter dem Berg hervor, wir wärmen uns etwas auf und fahren mit den Rädern am Animas River (ein schöner Radweg) nach Downtown Durango. Wir parken am Bahnhof, wo gerade der erste Zug um 8.15 Uhr schnaubend Richtung Silverton losfährt. Nostalgie hat seinen Preis: die Hinfahrt kostet 75 Dollar, die Rückfahrt 14 (ist uns zu teuer, aber es gibt noch genug andere Touristen, insbesondere Japaner, die sich den Spaß nicht nehmen lassen). Wir fahren mit den Rädern in die Innenstadt. Auf der Main Avenue machen wir noch einige Bilder von den Gebäuden, die uns gestern beeindruckt haben, besonders das Prachtstück, das Statler Hotel muss noch festgehalten werden. Ein Teil der Main Avenue ist noch abgesperrt für den Autoverkehr. Hier findet das alternative „Iron Horse“-Rennen als Stadtrennen statt. Morgens treten neben den Cracks, die Kleinen ab 5 bis zu den Junioren, die Oldies und die Damen in einer Klasse an. Nach den ersten Rennen, die wir teilweise mit der Kamera festgehalten haben, fahren wir hinunter zum Camino del Rio, wo wir von weitem die 9 Uhr Schmalspurbahn sehen. Die Lokomotive hüllt den Straßenzug in eine grauschwarze Rußwolke. Wir suchen die bessere Luft im Norden der Stadt. Oberhalb der Main Avenue liegt die Historical 3rd Avenue, eine breite Alleestraße, die jetzt angenehmen Schatten spendet. Durch den Santa Rita Park geht’s schnell bergab und zurück zum Visitor Center. Wir nehmen die Räder wieder huckepack auf den Van und parken an der Public Library, die wir als Stützpunkt fürs Internet nehmen. Am Visitor Center hat es heute nicht richtig funktioniert. Aber auch hier haben wir nur leidlich Erfolg. Eigentlich sind wir unterwegs zum Essen, zum Himalayan Inn, um den Memorial Day auch würdig zu feiern ( der tiefere Sinn kann sich uns wahrscheinlich nicht erschliessen). Hier gibt es für 7 Dollar „all you can eat“ auf tibetisch, nepalesisch und indisch. Das Fleisch ist zum Teil scharf gewürzt (besonders für den europäischen Geschmack), aber Gemüse und Salate haben es uns angetan. Zum Nachtisch gibt es Milchreis, Kugeln aus Honigteig und eine Melone. Wir sind angenehm satt, haben uns außerdem nur zu Wasser und Fladenbrot verführen lassen. Inzwischen ist es richtig heiß geworden: ein Eis müsste noch drin sein ! Also ab in den Camino del Rio zu Albertson´s, der uns 1,5 Liter Pecan-Nuss Eis im Sonderangebot bietet. Wir setzen uns ans Ufer des Animas, schauen den Raftern zu und vertilgen zu Zweit den Riesenbecher. Zur Verdauung gibt´s noch einen Kaffee Grande bei Starbucks. So lässt sich’s leben, wo wir doch gestern die State Park Gebühr gespart haben ! Auf dem Weg nach draußen kommen wir noch an einer Sitzgruppe vorbei; bei Starbucks selbst gibt es keine Sitzmöglichkeit, auch keine Barhocker. Also machen wir uns nochmals hier breit. Ein freundlich dreinblickender dunkelhäutiger Mann sitzt in der Ecke und hat wohl verfolgt, wie wir uns unterhalten. Er fragt nach „where are you guys from ?“ und schon greift er zum Handy und erklärt uns, dass seine Partnerin aus Deutschland sei, er selbst sei Kenianer. Schon kommt eine große, schlanke Frau um die Ecke gebogen und begrüßt uns freundlich. Sie ist Dentistin, hat 12 Jahre in New Jersey gelebt und möchte sich mit alternativer Dentologie in Colorado niederlassen, mit dem Hintergedanken, vielleicht den Altersruhesitz hierher zu verlegen. John, der Kenianer, ist Präsident von „Microlive“ und will den Plan unterstützen. Wir tauschen die Adressen mit Ljubla und John und freuen uns über das nette Gespräch und den gelungenen Tag. Aber noch sind wir in Durango. Also ab geht’s Richtung Mesa Verde. Bald sind wir von 2000m wieder auf 2500m Höhe und die schneebedeckten Berge rücken näher. Wir fahren über den La Plata River und betreten das Skigebiet Hesperus. Auf der Highway 160 geht’s weiter über den Mancos River nach Mancos. Das Tal ist trotz der Höhenlage schon wieder grün. Wildpferde und ein paar Kühe sind auf den Wiesen. Auf der kurvigen Highway begegnen wir vielen Bikern, die die Kurvenfahrt sichtlich genießen, ohne übertrieben schnell zu fahren. Zum ersten Mal sehen wir eine Tankstelle, die für die Gallone „Regular“- (Normal-)Benzin 4,05 Dollar verlangt. Wir nähern uns dem Mesa Verde National Park, aber noch geht es in Serpentinen bergauf von 2000m auf 2400m. Es ist inzwischen 17 Uhr und hat immer noch 23 Grad. Der Camp Ground wird von Aramark betrieben, aber die Anlage wirkt auf uns noch nicht so überwältigend. Mal sehen, was die Ausflugsziele zu bieten haben. 
Weitere Bilder
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