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Thursday, May 22. 2008
Wider Erwarten konnten wir trotz Kälte gut einschlafen, andererseits hatten wir einen körperlich anstrengenden Tag hinter uns. Überraschender Weise hat es heute Morgen 4 Grad, also ist es nicht kälter als zu Beginn unserer Reise im Norden Alabamas. Wir brauchen heute Morgen allerdings 3 Tassen Kaffee, um auf Touren zu kommen; Der Wind bläst mit voller Kraft. Wir suchen nach einem halbwegs windgeschützten Platz auf dem Camp Ground und finden in dem Zeltareal die Nr. 37, gegenüber dem Waschraum. Der alte Platz mit der Nr. 5 lag an der Zufahrt ; überraschend viele Camper sind schon weggefahren, aber genauso viele kommen wieder an. Vor allem am Wochenende muss man vorab online buchen; denn wer zu spät kommt, der muss gleich den langen Rückweg auf der Staubstraße antreten. Wir fahren mit dem Rad zum Visitor Center und registrieren uns für den Trail. Zunächst sehen wir dort aber noch einen Einführungsfilm zur Chaco-Kultur: Dabei kommen zahlreiche Vertreter der verschiedenen Indianerstämme (Hopi, Navajo, Apachen) zu Wort, die versuchen das Gebiet und die Kultur ihrer Vorfahren zu bewahren und das Verständnis für die Einzigartigkeit dieser Siedlung zu wecken. Seit 1992 gehört das Chaco Culture National Monument zum Weltkulturerbe. Wir nehmen zunächst den Canyon Loop Drive, kommen dabei vorbei an dem Inselberg, der die Landschaft prägt: der Fajada Butte hat der Erosion bislang getrotzt, auch wenn immer mehr Gestein vom Plateau abgetragen wird. Erste Station ist Hunga Pavi: diese Pueblo-Anlage ist noch nicht ausgegraben worden. Man sieht nur Mauerreste der Pueblo-Siedlung. Weiter geht’s bis zum Wendepunkt des Loops beim Pueblo del Arroyo, wo wir eine große Pueblo-Anlage und das benachbarte Pueblo Bonito besuchen. Das ist die größte Anlage einer Pueblo-Ansiedlung mit zahlreichen Kiwas und Wohn- und Lagerstätten. Trotzdem sollen hier nur 50 – 100 Indianer permanent gewohnt haben. Die vielen Kiwas deuten aber daraufhin, dass hier ein großes Zentrum der Begegnung verschiedener Stämme war. Ein besonderes Erlebnis ist der Anstieg auf das Pueblo Alta, auf der Hochebene des Canyons. Von diesem Plateau, auch Mesa genannt, kann man den ganzen Canyon überblicken und einmalige Fotos vom Pueblo Bonito und Chetro Keti aus der Vogelperspektive machen. Die Kliffwohnungen sind extremer Winderosion ausgesetzt und deshalb nicht mehr so gut erhalten. Der Abstieg vom Hochplateau erfordert hohe Konzentration. Plötzlich aufkommende Gewitter und Regenschauer zwingen einen, den markierten Pfad nicht zu verlassen. Der anhaltende Wind zerrt an allen Kleidungsstücken. Man kann zwar in einer der Höhlen Pause machen, aber der Wind bläst so unerbittlich, dass wir uns entschließen, weiterzugehen. Der Abstieg durch die Steilwand ist zwar beschwerlich, aber mit jedem Schritt nach unten nimmt die Windstärke ab. Wir sind froh wieder heil unten angekommen zu sein. Jetzt entledigen wir uns auch der Regenhaut, die uns beim plötzlich einsetzenden Regen geschützt hat. Erst mal normal durchatmen, ohne lärmenden Wind ! Mit dem Rad geht’s wieder zurück auf den Canyon Loop. Wir machen Halt an der größten Kiwa, Tsin Kletsin genannt, die mitten im Tal liegt. Im Gegensatz zu den anderen Pueblo-Anlagen, die sich an der Nordseite des Canyons entlang ziehen. Nach 4 Stunden, und mit Rückenwind auf der Schlussetappe erreichen wir um 15 Uhr den Campingplatz. Es hat jetzt aufgehört zu regnen, aber die Wolken stehen noch bedrohlich am Himmel. In der Ferne ziehen wieder Gewitter auf. Bald wird es über dem Zeltplatz dunkel und ein Dauerregen setzt ein. 
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